Things to Know About Braga

Roman ruins under the floor of Frigideiras do Cantinho
Braga is one of my favorite places in Portugal (so far). The center of town in a beautifully preserved city, centered around a cathedral that dates to the 11th century. There are many good - and very reasonable - restaurants, as well as pastry shops and bars throughout.
There are tourists, particularly those making a pilgrimage to Bom Jesus do Monte, a Portuguese sanctuary in Tenões, just a few kilometers outside of town. However, you do not see the swarms of tourists like those that descend on Lisbon from the cruise ships on the river.  There is less of a touristy vibe. 

For example, the 2-hour walking tour we took throughout the city was FREE - they depended on whatever tip you wished to give. In other cities, such tours run from 15 - 30 Euros.  There are fewer souvenir shops, as well. Although you can easily find items to bring home if you aren't worried about having to carry everything on your back all day. 

The past is all around you

The past is casually integrated into buildings that are still in use today.  Our tour guide noted, "It is cheaper to use an existing wall (of the fortress) when building a new space." Thus, you see apartments and shops springing out of centuries old walls. Equally casual is the preservation of evidence of past civilizations. A pre-Roman Bath of Bracara sits where it was found - at the basement level of the Braga train station. A popular cafe - known for its meat pastries - was undergoing remodeling when they discovered Roman ruins beneath the floor. What do do? Install glass floor tiles so that customers can view the excavations.  The tower of the former castle stands in the middle of a busy pedestrian lane.  

The people of Braga are very religious

The Sé de Braga
Braga is known as the "Portuguese Rome" and also  the "City of the Archbishops" because the  the city was home to the archbishopric for almost seven centuries. There are more than 30 churches, so you hear bells ringing throughout the city at all hours of the day. 
Beautiful baroque churches are everywhere, including the Igreja de Santa Cruz (built in the 17th century), the Congregados (which was started in 6th century but only completed in the 1960s), and the spectacular pilgrimage site of Bom Jesus do Monte, just outside of town. Predating all of these is Braga's original cathedral, the Sé de Braga. It is the site of the first Christian (Catholic) cathedral in Portugal and the home of Portugal's first archbishopric. It has been expanded throughout the centuries, and includes many styles of architecture.
In addition to adhering to the teachings of the Church, many residents continue traditions meant to ward off bad luck and evil. It is believed that Maios, a.k.a. the devil, can more easily access your home from a corner of the building, thus at the homes of some more traditional Portuguese you may find a small shrine to the Virgin Mary at the corner and perhaps a candle burning for good measure.
warding off evil at a corner
  


The people of Braga like to joke

Banana and muscatel - a Braga tradition
Braga is a religious center, but it is also home to the Universidade do Minho. Where there are students, there is drinking.  A strange tradition begun more than 30 years ago, has the people of Braga gathering outside a local bar before Christmas Eve dinner to eat bananas and drink muscatel with their friends. 

According to our guide (others have slightly different versions), the tradition began when a group of college friends wanted to get together for a meal and a few drinks on Christmas Eve. Unfortunately, all of the local establishments were closed for the holiday.  They found one place open, a warehouse. It was primarily a spot for storing bananas, but the owner had set up a small counter where clients could have a glass of muscat wine. The group made do and enjoyed a get-together drinking wine and eating bananas. The following year, they decided to do it again - and a tradition was born.  These days, Souto Street is flooded by thousands of people between 4 and 8 p.m. heading to "Bananeiro" to toast Christmas Eve with family and friends. 

The Casa Das Bananas today serves many types of alcohol and packaged liquors to go - some in rather risqué bottles.  First-time patrons of the Casa Das Bananas are also treated to a special welcome. They are invited to sit at the last stool of the bar and read from a "special" magazine - when they are shown page 60, they are in for a rude surprise! (I will not explain it here and spoil the fun for any of you who may go to Braga in the future.)
The Devil shows his backside to Spain

Even the Church is not above a bit of naughty humor. If you look up at the Sé de Braga from Rua de Nossa Senhora do Leite, you'll see that one of the gargoyles is not facing outward, but rather is showing its rear end to the street. More specifically, the "mooning" gargoyle represents the Devil, and he is showing his backside to Spain.

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