Coimbra: The Burning of the Ribbons
Coimbra is home to Portugal's top university, Universidade de Coimbra. Founded in Lisbon in 1290, it moved permanently to its permanent home in 1537. Universidade de Coimbra is Portugal's equivalent of Oxford University, and one of the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world. Students there still follow old traditions and can be seen walking through campus in their long capes, looking very much like a scene from Hogwarts.
Like all college towns, Coimbra is filled with exuberant young people looking for an education and a good time. We happened to arrive on the biggest week of celebration in the year - the Queima das Fitas or Burning of the Ribbons. The name derives from the ritual burning of ribbons representing each faculty of the University from which the students are graduating. This week-long celebration is filled with concerts (as we soon learned), banquets, a ball, sporting events and other rich traditions. It marks the celebration of graduation for seniors and also welcomes incoming freshmen to the university.
Unfortunately, we missed the two biggest events - the opening nighttime student fado serenade (Serenata Monumental) on the stairs of the Old Cathedral of Coimbra and the closing parade, the Cortejo, that begins in the high part of town where the university is located, and continues down to the Baixa of downtown Coimbra with dozens of elaborate floats, with students carrying placards that poke fun at certain teachers, national events and political leaders. The parade is made up of thousands of "newly liberated" students in top hats and walking sticks. We chanced upon Lisbon's version of the burning of the ribbons the following weekend and the Metro system around the large King Edward Park was shut down for the celebration - and had a fireworks display at 2 a.m.
Our first night began with the raucous sounds of an open-air concert from across the river. It began with bands playing interpretations of popular American music, heavy on the George Michaels vibe, and continued throughout the evening. And continued into the night. And switched over to throbbing techno somewhere around 1 a.m. And continued...and came to its blaring dubstep conclusion at 4 a.m. I am not exaggerating.
We did happen upon a banquet where we could hear the mournful and joyous songs of students singing of their love for Coimbra and their dear friends. It was in a taverna with traditional Moorish screens, so we couldn't see it, but could hear the beautiful songs clearly.
Like all college towns, Coimbra is filled with exuberant young people looking for an education and a good time. We happened to arrive on the biggest week of celebration in the year - the Queima das Fitas or Burning of the Ribbons. The name derives from the ritual burning of ribbons representing each faculty of the University from which the students are graduating. This week-long celebration is filled with concerts (as we soon learned), banquets, a ball, sporting events and other rich traditions. It marks the celebration of graduation for seniors and also welcomes incoming freshmen to the university.
Unfortunately, we missed the two biggest events - the opening nighttime student fado serenade (Serenata Monumental) on the stairs of the Old Cathedral of Coimbra and the closing parade, the Cortejo, that begins in the high part of town where the university is located, and continues down to the Baixa of downtown Coimbra with dozens of elaborate floats, with students carrying placards that poke fun at certain teachers, national events and political leaders. The parade is made up of thousands of "newly liberated" students in top hats and walking sticks. We chanced upon Lisbon's version of the burning of the ribbons the following weekend and the Metro system around the large King Edward Park was shut down for the celebration - and had a fireworks display at 2 a.m.
Our first night began with the raucous sounds of an open-air concert from across the river. It began with bands playing interpretations of popular American music, heavy on the George Michaels vibe, and continued throughout the evening. And continued into the night. And switched over to throbbing techno somewhere around 1 a.m. And continued...and came to its blaring dubstep conclusion at 4 a.m. I am not exaggerating.
We did happen upon a banquet where we could hear the mournful and joyous songs of students singing of their love for Coimbra and their dear friends. It was in a taverna with traditional Moorish screens, so we couldn't see it, but could hear the beautiful songs clearly.
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